![]() Toll-free customer service line to serve your needs service center.Convenient over-the-counter replacement. #Right angle drill plusRural King Plus Protection Plan Benefits: Free maintenance is defined as an oil change, spark plug(s), blade sharpening, air and / or fuel filter. #Right angle drill freeOne free maintenance per year of coverage is covered from day one with your repair plan.Repair plan with maintenance on all qualifying products $300 or greater.In-store replacement for all qualifying products under $300.At least the Ridgid might give SBD some competition and incite them to improve.Protect your purchase with the Rural King Plus Protection Plan! But my main hope is that Dewalt comes out with a better version of their current right angle drill and still have it be part of the main 20V Max line, with their excellent chuck and a better motor similar to the DCD996 (and up) drills. I’ll probably give this Ridgid one a try as it looks promising and I find their other tools perform much more reliably than Ryobis. I know that some of these are edge cases and the issues are particular to drilling in parallams or other unusual situations and materials, but I seem to run into them all. Sharp paddles seem to work better in PSL than augers, and hole saws go slow with plug removal. While you can find specialty bits (like Southwire or Greenlee super short augers), most larger paddle bits only come in 4″ length as shortest, and cutting the bit down eliminates the advantage of having a shaped arbor which engages the chuck better and mostly eliminates spinning when the bit catches (and turns it into kickback). A lot of people will ask “why does it need to do that, just use a shorter bit”. This makes the depth of the head plus bit the shortest, so it fits in the tightest places. #Right angle drill driverIt is specially designed for use in right angle drills, and it swallows up most of a 2″ driver bit. We’ve had zero failures with the Kobalt 24V Max right angle drills.Īlthough the Dewalt has the absolute worst motor out of all of them, it has a great gearbox, and the best chuck (despite being an in-house item). I found the 4Ah battery usually lasts long enough to be able to charge another 4Ah on the fast charger (when I looked last year, it seems Lowe’s only sells fast chargers, the slow ones pretty much only come with the kits). The power is great, the batteries are relatively inexpensive. However, the Kobalt 24V Max looked better already, as it has a genuine Jacobs chuck. I was really hoping for the Ryobi because it was inexpensive and could use our standardized Dewalt 20V batteries with an inexpensive adapter, as long as the battery doesn’t get over-discharged (I also built one adapter with a shutdown circuit from the Dewalt 18V adapter). So while this unit might be good for driving screws in tough spots at home, we didn’t have luck with it in our use case. The replacement unit had the chuck self-destruct with the springs and jaws popping out. One was replaced (didn’t have time to drill/ez-out the broken screw myself). The two Ryobis we had ended up snapping the screw holding the chuck. However, the Ryobi has the worst chuck I’ve ever seen on a tool, which isn’t being too negative since I pretty much only buy premium brands and hadn’t had any Ryobis since they were still blue. I found two products that had good motors–the Ryobi One+HP, and the Kobalt 24V Max. These are all issues I’ve found in most of the products out there. If the current isn’t limited to what the windings can handle, you’ll have another problem. I can’t tell you how many brushed units we burned out, but keep in mind that slow speeds are worse on motors, and if the brushes aren’t sized to match the current draw of the armature windings, you’re going have a weak spot. I’ve tried nearly every right angle cordless drill on the market (until this Ridgid) and have learned that in this segment for demanding situations, brushless is pretty much a requirement. So, performance became the number one requirement over “does it fit the battery pack I already have”. We even recently finished a new construction where the previous contractor bailed out, but all the structural framing was done with engineered PSL studs. When building new custom homes or additions, the right angle drill was generally a problem solver–but the problems always showed up several times per site, so it wasn’t used as extensively. Sometimes the bays are narrower than the amount of wood to be drilled, which requires several length bits and a mid-hole change. After these are installed, the bays have little room to use Hole Hawgs, and right angle drills come in to play a LOT. In seismic areas on older (1920-1950ish) homes it involves a lot of parallams doubled onto existing floor joists. I do both electrical and plumbing for a lot of whole-house remodel and restorations. ![]()
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